In a feat that has captured the hearts of both the UK and Nepal, former British Army Commando Tejan Gurung, known as TJ, has become the youngest British man to scale the world’s 14 tallest mountains by the age of 29.
TJ reached the summit of his final peak, Shishapangma, on October 9, 2024, solidifying his place in mountaineering history.
Born in Pokhara, Nepal, TJ’s journey began when his family moved to the UK in 2005 after his father’s retirement from the renowned Brigade of Gurkhas. Inspired by his father’s service, TJ joined the British Army’s Royal Engineers in 2014 at just 19 years old. After passing the gruelling All-Arms Commando Course, TJ served six years with the 24 Commando Regiment under 3 Commando Brigade, gaining the resilience and mental fortitude that would propel him up some of the world’s most treacherous peaks.
It was a return to his roots in Nepal that first ignited his passion for the Big Mountains, where he scaled Everest and Lhotse back-to-back in May 2022. Encouraged by his success, TJ left the military in 2023, setting his sights on an ambitious quest to conquer the 14 highest peaks. His journey saw him teaming up with Elite Exped, quickly establishing himself as a cherished figure known for his warmth, humour, and indomitable spirit. He became a beloved member of the team, joining the record-breaking effort to conquer Pakistan’s five highest peaks in a mere 26 days.
But TJ’s mission wasn’t without its trials. During the 2023 climbing season, tragedy struck when avalanches claimed the lives of his climbing partners Anna Gutu and Mingmar Sherpa. Ever-determined, TJ returned to Shishapangma in 2024, completing the peak in their honour and paying tribute to the enduring spirit of the Big Mountain community.
Reflecting on his remarkable achievement, TJ said, “It’s a privilege to represent both the UK and Nepal and to honour my friends Anna and Mingmar. Climbing isn’t just about reaching the top; it’s about the camaraderie, the memories, and pushing each other to be the best we can be. I hope to inspire younger climbers to chase their dreams and find that joy. And I believe we must protect our planet and support each other in showcasing the incredible hospitality of the Big Mountain community.”
He continued, “Nepal is part of my heritage, and the mountains are my heart. But it’s not just the challenge that drives me; it’s the chance to show others what’s possible. These Big Mountains are more than just my backyard – they’re where I test my limits and embrace resilience.”
This achievement makes TJ the youngest British man to complete the 14 Peaks challenge, and he’s eager to continue his work with Elite Exped, inspiring climbers worldwide to reach their “new possible.”
Reflecting on TJ’s journey, Elite Exped founder and fellow record-breaking climber Nimsdai Purja commented, “TJ embodies everything we stand for at Elite Exped – resilience, focus, and joy. It’s been a privilege to see his success, and with him on your team, the sky’s the limit. Together, we’re showing the world the beauty of Nepal and the incredible spirit of its people.”
TJ’s Historic Summit Record
- Everest – 27 May 2022
- Lhotse – 28 May 2022
- Annapurna – 15 April 2023
- Makalu – 23 May 2023
- Kanchenjunga – 1 June 2023
- Nanga Parbat – 2 July 2023
- G2 – 17 July 2023
- G1 – 21 July 2023
- Broad Peak – 25 July 2023
- K2 – 28 July 2023
- Manaslu – 17 September 2023
- Dhaulagiri – 29 September 2023
- Cho Oyu – 2 October 2023
- Shishapangma – 9 October 2024
With each climb, TJ has carved a legacy of endurance, honouring his heritage and celebrating the spirit of the Big Mountain community. His story is a testament to the strength of the human spirit and the enduring bond between two nations, united under the flags of both the UK and Nepal.
Photo: Tejan on the Summit of Shishapangma with Elite Exped. Photo credit: Elite Exped
